Aquascaping FAQ

I always recommend starting with a 10-20 gallon tank. While 5-gallon tanks are tempting (and cheaper), they're actually harder to maintain because water parameters swing faster. My first successful tank was a 10-gallon—it's big enough to be stable but small enough to be affordable. Budget around $150-200 for a basic planted setup.

The initial setup takes 2-4 hours. But here's what nobody tells you: you can't add fish right away. You need to "cycle" the tank for 4-6 weeks. This grows beneficial bacteria that convert fish waste. Skip this step and your fish will die—I learned this the hard way with my first tank. Use a test kit to monitor ammonia/nitrite levels.

For beginners, I recommend the "Dutch" style (lots of colorful plants) or a simple "Nature" style with easy plants and some driftwood. Iwagumi (rock-only) looks simple but is actually challenging because carpeting plants need high light and CO2. Start simple, learn the basics, then try more advanced styles.

Not for beginners! Plenty of beautiful plants grow without CO2: Java Fern, Anubias, Java Moss, Cryptocoryne, Amazon Sword. CO2 mainly helps with carpeting plants (Monte Carlo, Dwarf Hairgrass) and red plants. Start without CO2, learn plant care basics, then consider adding it later if you want to grow more demanding species.

This is usually "transition melt" and is completely normal! Plants from the store were likely grown emersed (above water) and need to adapt. Cut off dying leaves, keep the roots healthy, and new submersed growth will appear in 2-3 weeks. However, if plants continue melting after a month, check your lighting (too weak) or substrate (not enough nutrients).

Active substrates like ADA Amazonia, UNS Controsoil, or Fluval Stratum are best—they lower pH and provide nutrients. But they're expensive ($30-50/bag). Budget option: Use regular gravel with root tabs for heavy root feeders. I've grown beautiful Crypts and Amazon Swords in plain gravel with root tabs.

Most beginners actually use TOO MUCH light, causing algae. For easy plants (Java Fern, Anubias), 6-8 hours at 20-30 PAR is plenty. For carpeting plants, you need 8-10 hours at 50+ PAR. Start with 6 hours and increase gradually. A timer is essential—inconsistent lighting = algae city.

My top 5 unkillable plants: 1) Java Fern (tie to wood, never bury), 2) Anubias (same—rhizome must be exposed), 3) Java Moss (literally just throw it in), 4) Amazon Sword (needs root tabs), 5) Water Wisteria (grows like a weed). All five will survive low light and no CO2.

The old "1 inch per gallon" rule is outdated. Better guideline: for a 10-gallon planted tank, try 6-8 small schooling fish (like Neon Tetras) OR 1 centerpiece fish (like a Betta) with 3-4 Corydoras. Always research each species—some fish need more space than you'd think. Overcrowding = ammonia spikes = dead fish.

Only after the nitrogen cycle is complete—typically 4-6 weeks. Your test kit should show: Ammonia = 0, Nitrite = 0, Nitrate = some reading (10-20ppm). Never trust "instant cycle" products as your only method. I lost a school of Tetras by rushing this. The bacteria colony needs time to establish.

Fish that won't destroy your plants: Neon/Cardinal Tetras (peaceful schoolers), Rasboras (gentle and beautiful), Corydoras (adorable bottom cleaners), Otocinclus (eat algae off leaves), Bettas (solo in smaller tanks). Avoid: Goldfish (cold water, massive waste), Silver Dollars (will eat EVERYTHING), large Cichlids (dig up plants).

Yes, for tropical fish (which most aquarium fish are). Aim for 76-80°F. Without a heater, temperature fluctuates with room temp, stressing fish and weakening their immune systems. Get a heater with a built-in thermostat—the Fluval E series is reliable. Check it with a separate thermometer to verify accuracy.

Lighting. Everything else is fixable, but wrong lighting = algae disaster or dead plants. For a 10-20 gallon tank, budget $40-60 on a quality LED light. The Nicrew SkyLED and Hygger Planted Plus are great budget options. Avoid cheap clip-on lights—they're not designed for plant growth.

Yes! Plants help with water quality but can't replace a filter. Filters provide: 1) mechanical filtration (removes debris), 2) biological filtration (houses beneficial bacteria), 3) water circulation. For planted tanks, choose a gentle filter—strong flow stresses fish and blows around plants. Sponge filters or HOB filters on low work great.

Start simple with an all-in-one liquid fertilizer like Seachem Flourish or Easy Green (1-2x per week). Add root tabs under heavy feeders (Swords, Crypts). Don't over-fertilize—excess nutrients feed algae, not plants. I dose half the recommended amount and increase if I see deficiency signs (yellow leaves, holes in leaves).

Weekly 25-30% water changes are the gold standard. In heavily planted tanks with low fish load, you might stretch to every 2 weeks. But honestly, consistent weekly changes are the #1 habit of successful aquarists. It takes 15 minutes and prevents so many problems. I do mine every Sunday morning—routine is everything.

Stem plants: cut the top 2/3 and replant the cuttings (free new plants!). Carpeting plants: trim with scissors like mowing a lawn. Rhizome plants (Anubias, Java Fern): cut off dead leaves at the base. Pro tip: do a water change after heavy trimming—cut plants release nutrients that can trigger algae.

Yes, but you MUST use a dechlorinator (like Seachem Prime). Chlorine/chloramine in tap water kills fish and beneficial bacteria. Add dechlorinator to new water before putting it in the tank, or add it directly to the tank during water changes. This is non-negotiable—I've seen tanks crash from forgetting this step.

First, identify the type. Green dust/spot algae = too much light. Brown diatoms = new tank, will go away. Hair/string algae = nutrient imbalance. Black beard algae = low CO2, fluctuating conditions. Universal fixes: reduce light to 6 hours, add more plants, do more water changes, add algae-eating shrimp or Otocinclus. There's no magic solution—it takes 2-4 weeks of consistent effort.

White/gray cloudy = bacterial bloom (common in new tanks, harmless, goes away in a few days). Green cloudy = suspended algae (reduce light, do blackout for 3 days). Brown cloudy = tannins from driftwood (harmless, some people like it, activated carbon removes it). Don't panic and don't do massive water changes—this often makes it worse.

This is an emergency! Low oxygen or high ammonia/nitrite. Immediately: 1) Add an airstone or increase surface agitation, 2) Do a 50% water change with dechlorinated water, 3) Test ammonia/nitrite levels. If ammonia or nitrite is high, the tank isn't cycled or you've overfed. Reduce feeding and do daily 25% water changes until levels drop.

Biofilm! Completely normal and harmless—it's bacteria/fungus breaking down the wood. Shrimp and Otocinclus love eating it. It goes away on its own in 1-2 weeks. Don't remove the wood or scrub it—this is natural. My first tank had this and I panicked. Wish someone had told me it's fine!